Completed: JP Ryan Stays

So I finished the JP Ryan Stays. The only modification I made to this pattern was to lengthen the front. I get a weird and unfortunate pooch when stays don't give me coverage there. Overall I'm pretty happy with the fit. I can actually get these almost all the way evenly  closed when I have time and help to lace properly - so if I made another pair I would size down. In fact I took some ease out at the back most panel, which you can see with the kind of crappy looking stitching below. These fit me much better than my first attempt at stays, and I have a feeling that has a lot to do with them being fully boned. That and that these have no front closure, which while make them easier to put on, give a less than smooth silhouette.  

I plan on making another pair soon, possibly by hand. I tend to lose weight in the summer so I don't know how long these will be usable without alteration. As always my motto is fit for the body you have now. Plus practice makes perfect right? I'm also excited to make something other than stays for the next HSM challenge, two in a row was a bit much. On the bright side, I'm sure everything else will feel like a complete breeze after all this stitching! 

The Challenge: Blue

Fabric: Shell- linen, Lining - Quilting Cotton, Interfacing - Canvas

Pattern: JP Ryan's Strapless Stays

Year: 18th Century

Notions: Bias tape, plastic boning, and perle thread

How historically accurate is it? Minus the boning I would say fairly accurate. I could have bound with leather versus bias tape, but time and money won out in the long run. Since I'd never made this pattern before, I wanted to test the fit with this first version more than anything. 

Hours to complete: I didn't really keep very good track, but working on it occasionally on weekends I would guess it took me about a month to complete. 

First worn: For these photos, although this weekend I'd like to wear them to an event. 

Total cost: Boning 15, fabrics 18, floss 1, awl 9, binding 6 , thread 4 - Total = 39$

Workshop - Olde Towne Bead 3-D Embroidery

WMWingsInProgress-620x620.jpg

If any of you are in Ohio or willing to travel you should come take this class with me! My friend Larissa of the very talented Wilde Hunt Corsetry is having a class on 3-D embroidery. Learn 17th century embroidery techniques! 

It's partly supported by our group - Ohio Historic Costumers! You should join!  

To sign up for the class just follow this link over to Olde Towne Bead Supply. Hope to see some of my readers there! 

♥ Paige

I love reading your comments! If you also have a blog don't forget to put it in the comment form so I can check it out. Thanks for reading, you're the best! Disclosure Here.

Snow Day

I'm in the Midwest, and while I'm used to bitter colds, Cincinnati isn't really known for snow accumulation. We did get a bit of a one-two punch of snow this week though, which lead me to actually being forced to stay home. Cincinnati is rather hilly, and it doesn't take much snow at all to really make driving rather treacherous. On Monday we got about six inches, and Wednesday we got about four more. I wasn't going anywhere, and couldn't get off my street's hill even if I wanted to. Snow day it was!

image.jpg

I took this photo about ten minutes after I had scraped my car and shoveled the driveway clean. The snow was sticking to everything. 

image.jpg
image.jpg

Pretty deep, but nice and powdery. We may have gone sledding in the backyard while the dogs lost their ever loving minds. I did get some sewing done as well. I finished sewing my regency spencer! It's lacking some trim. The frog is great, but I'm thinking I need some beading or trim along the neckline and sleeve cuffs. Any opinions?

image.jpg
image.jpg

♥ Paige

I love reading your comments! If you also have a blog don't forget to put it in the comment form so I can check it out. Thanks for reading, you're the best! Disclosure Here.

Sew Caroline's Downtown Tunic

I was picked to be a pattern tester for the new Sew Caroline pattern, the downtown tunic. I've pattern tested before to Sew Caroline, with the waterfall tank. Weirdly enough I'm using the leftover quilting cotton scraps from that project as the skirt portion of this one. The top fabric was originally supposed to be a Moneta dress, but I never got around to it. I also need more tops than dresses at this point in my life so figured I'd give this pattern a shot. I didn't even have to make a single trip to joann's to get it done. Before I begin my review, please be aware that I received a tester pattern. The pattern that is being released will contain any fixes to issues in drafting or instruction errors. For providing a review of this pattern, I received the tester pattern for free, as well as another pattern of my choosing from the sew caroline catalog. I was not compensated monetarily, and all opinions are my own. 

This pattern comes in sizes XSmall (bust- 31.5 waist- 25 hips-35) to XXXLarge (bust- 45.5 waist-39 hips-49). The garment's finished measurements show that it's a bit more A-line than the size chart intends. You've got about 2 inches of negative ease in the bust and seven inches of ease in the waist, with a confusing .5 inches of negative ease in the largest size on the hips- but an extra three inches for the smallest size. As far as the sizing on this pattern I found that if I followed the size chart, it worked out alright. The arms were a bit tight, but that's an issues I often face with patterns not drafted closer to my size. I made up the XXXLarge pattern. While I know that pattern sizing runs differently than say store's vanity sizing, I would personally much prefer a pattern sizing system that denotes a number instead of just adding an extra X to the previous size. I much prefer when patterns are sized by the bust measurement. 

Since this was the first time I made this pattern, I made no adjustments. I figured since it was such a loose fit garment I wouldn't need to make any. If I attempted to sew this again I would lengthen the front and bring up the back hem. I don't think the mullet style is the most flattering for my body. The line created by where the knit meets the woven fabric hits the wides part of my body. It does give the illusion that I have more hips than I do, which for an apple shape can sometimes be nice. I would add more ease into the sleeve as well, it came out a bit tight on my arms. 

The pattern has a lot of top stitching on the knit, but doesn't recommend a twin needle. If you're sewing a straight stitch on knit, please do yourself a favor and get a twin needle. Knit fabric stretches, a single straight stitch doesn't. By using a twin needle you're sewing a straight stitch that stretches, and won't break when you stretch your knit fabric. Besides that, the instructions made sense and were easy to follow. 

I really like the top half of this pattern. The tunic style, once I add some ease to the sleeves, could totally be modified to be my go to t-shirt. I'm not sold on the cascade style (see mullet) hem on my body. I feel the front of the garment really draws attention to the widest part of my shape. The back view is nicer. I might try and do more of a dolphin style hem, mirroring the front to the back. I'll report back if that works out. 

Overall it's a good pattern. I have some personal fit issues with it, but that shouldn't stop others from trying it. That is if they fall within the smaller size range. I whipped it together in a little over an hour completely out of my stash using my sewing machine and my serger. 

Sewing Plans - Historical

To get anything accomplished this year, I need to plan. I've got a lot of sewing I'd like to do, and not a ton of time to do it in, so I just wanted to make my timeline public to help hold me accountable. 

Now Through March:

I'm going to finish my new stays within the next few days, I'm sewing the lining in right now. But until march I kind of want to have an 18th century free for all. I'd like to complete a hand sewn shift, bed jacket, two new petticoats, a calico jacket, and a round gown. Realistically the gown probably won't happen, but I can for sure get everything else done before March is over. The patterns I plan on using are below. All are JP Ryan.

April Through June

A new era. Regency! I'll be starting my regency stays at the end of march, but I'm not only trying to get a whole kit together for myself, but my boyfriend as well. He's too dandy to be a mountain man. ;) So I need to get him some breeches, shirts, vests, and a coat. I'll need my stays, petticoats, Spencer, and gown. I draped my Spencer on my last vacation, I just need to actually sew it. All patterns except the gown are from laughing moon, the gown is from past patterns.

Regency should keep me busy for three months right? I really will need something to wear with my fabulous new hat when I take Lydia Fast's regency bonnet workshop this November. A total splurge on my part, but it's going to be awesome to learn hat making. If you're interested in a regency stays sew-along, we'll be doing one this March at Ohio Historic Costumers, a group I help run. Check us out here and here. We're hosting workshops, sewing circles, and meetups! 

June through the end of the year.

Another new era. Natural form. I have no game plan for this yet. It should be interesting to say the least. I never even thought I'd attempt a bustle. Word on the street is that Ohio Historic Costumers might have a very Victorian Christmas coming our way. 

Of course I'd love to do some non costume sewing as well. But we'll see. There's a few simple patterns that have really caught my eye that I might be able to sneak in. What are your plans? 



♥ Paige

I love reading your comments! If you also have a blog don't forget to put it in the comment form so I can check it out. Thanks for reading, you're the best! Disclosure Here.
In Tags ,

On The Sewing Table: 18th c. Strapless Stays

So while wearing my new stays for the first time at the Alafia River Rendezvous, I fell a bit out of love with them. I put so much time and work into them, and I think their beautiful - but the fit was just off. I don't think I'm a fan of the straps number one. I was always have to adjust them. I also found the straps restrictive. The stays were partially boned, and seeing as I'm a D cup, I think fully boned might suit me better. So one of the patterns I picked up from Wm. Booth Draper was the JP Ryan Stays pattern. 

Of course after I buy it I find that it's not really everyone's favorite pattern, but I'd already made a muslin, so I'm in it to win it. I've heard from a few sources that JP Ryan drafts patterns for people with a longer torso, which is great for me. I also tried making a mock up in cardboard. 

For a boned garment I think this actually works really well! You have to be quite liberal with the tape, but it's much quicker than boning a muslin. It fit fairly well, I did want to lengthen the front two pieces so provide better coverage and prevent a pouch. 

You can kind of see the adjustments I made. Pieces one and two on the far left were lengthened a considerable amount. It'll change the shape a bit, but I think it'll be much more flattering. I also added a bit of width to piece number 5, the back most panel, to give me a bit of play in how large or small the lacing gap is. I'm working on my boning channels. Which I am, for shame, doing with my machine. I really don't want to invest a weeks worth of hand sewing into a pattern which I've not sewn yet. If these do work out I might make another pair to keep in my hand sewing basket by the TV, but not until then. 

Here's hoping these turn out much more useful than my previous set of stays. Fingers crossed this isn't a waste of that beautiful teal linen! 

1830's Hood

Once of the classes I did at The 44th Alafia River Rendezvous was with 96 Fabrics - a 1830's quilted hood. While mine's not really quilted and I don't do 1830's reenactments as of yet,  I still really enjoyed the class! Below are some museum examples of what we were going for. 

While much more elegant than mine, I actually really like how it turned out. It's very warm! Which is funny because I made it at an event in Florida where I doubt I'll ever need it. 

PicMonkey Collage2.jpg
views.jpg

I purchased everything needed to make this bonnet from 96 Fabrics. There's a layer of batting everywhere except the back ruffle of the hood. It's completely hand sewn with linen thread. The exterior is a tapestry type fabric, while the interior is a sheer that incorporates a green warp and a pink weft. Excuse these heinous photos. Sometimes I don't want to drag out my DSLR and it shows in the picture quality. Oh well, save the good camera for when it's styled on my head I suppose! 

44th Alafia River Rendezvous

Since my birthday is in January, and I live in Ohio, I decided I needed to go somewhere warmer for once. My father was attending the Alafia River Rendezvous in Homeland Florida, so we decided to tag along for the week. 

Click To Enlarge. 

While not the most historically accurate event, rendezvous can be a lot of fun and often have really good workshops you can take.  So we drove the 16 hours to Florida and got ready to do some camping. We had wonderful weather, but unfortunately Brian picked up a 24 hour stomach bug. It left him puking and or recovering for most of the trip, and when not tending to a poor sick boy, me up to my own devices. 

But I did manage to do a fair amount of workshops, which is always fun. I did a regency spencer jacket (still a work in progress) and an 1830's quilted hood (post soon!) with the team over at 96 Fabrics.  I did a thread button class with William Booth Draper . Whom I didn't even realize was a vendor until near the last day, missing the previous workshops. I did buy probably way to many patterns once I realized they were there though. I also learned and purchased an inkle loom from Carol Leigh. I would have never guessed I would like looming, since I'm so terrible at other yarn crafts, but I find it weirdly soothing - go figure. Also I can see it coming in handy to do my own self made trims. 

Making our 1830's quilted hoods with 96 Fabrics.

Making our 1830's quilted hoods with 96 Fabrics.

Learning to make inkles on my new mini inkle loom. 

Learning to make inkles on my new mini inkle loom. 

I also competed in the Ladies games of frying pan and rolling pin tossing. I came in fourth both times, which while leaving me infinitely sour, isn't too shabby for someone who'd never competed in either games. Let the training begin for next year right? To see my impressive, fourth place, throw - check out instagram. 

16384951615_98e73b989c_o+(1).jpg

Once Brian was feeling up to par we did take a side trip over the Universal Studio's newest expansion of The Wizarding World of Harry Potter - Diagon Alley. But that deserves a post of it's own. Even with Brian being pretty terribly sick, even he had a good time. It made me realize how much we both need more accurate wardrobes, and the issues of my own. Wearing period clothing for a week you realize quickly what's not working so well. Good thing I bought a boatload of patterns right? 

♥ Paige

I love reading your comments! If you also have a blog don't forget to put it in the comment form so I can check it out. Thanks for reading, you're the best! Disclosure Here.

1760-1780's Paniers

So while I was getting over the flu I had lots of time on the couch, great for hand-sewing right? So I decided to try and throw together some paniers following the Dreamstress's Panier Along.  I hand sewed these 100%, and am pretty happy with how they turned out! I got everything for my paniers from my stash, since I wasn't really well enough to leave the house. I wish I had some cane boning though, the plastic boning has a tendency to collapse on one side, but I'll try and fix it before I wear it at any events. While I do feel a bit silly wearing them, I can already tell they'll be really useful! I'll basically have two purse's worth of storage strapped to my hips! Worn with my chemise and 18th century stays. 



The Challenge: 

  • January – Foundations: make something that is the foundation of a period outfit.

Fabric:

Scrap muslin.

Pattern: 

Self drafted based on the panier along tutorial. 

Year: 

18th century, 1760-1780.

Notions:

Bias Binding, thread, beeswax, plastic boning, and ribbon.

How historically accurate is it?

Minus the plastic boning, I'd say pretty close? All hand sewn natural fibers. I'd love to replace the plastic boning with some cane boning when I can get my hands on some. 

Hours to complete:

Two, maybe three hours? I complete a majority of it on the couch watching Marie Antoinette. 

First worn:

For photos! I'm planning on wearing them at a living history event this January though! 

Total cost:

Everything was already in my stash, but if I had to figure out if I bought it today I'd say under 20$? 

Aloo Matar

I don't go out to eat very often anymore. I'm in save all the money ever mode, and I haven't had a ton of time  between my three jobs plus housework. I do cook all the time and occasionally share stuff I make that I end up really liking. This was one of those dishes, Aloo Matar. While I'm not authority on cooking Indian food, I did managed to eek this out based on what I had on hand. It was tasty, spicy, simple, and about as cheap to make as it gets. The spice really helped with clearing out mine and my housemates sinuses - we're all now just getting over the flu. 

Aloo Matar

The Gravy:

  • 1 tsp cumin seeds
  • 1 tsp ginger grated
  • 1 tbsp garlic pressed
  • 1 medium onion diced
  • 1 can crushed tomatoes 14 oz.
  • 1 tsp red chili powder (You can add more depending on what spice level you'd like. Start with 1 tsp and build from there)
  • 1/2 cup sour cream (You can omit this to make the dish vegan, still just as tasty.)
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • oil

The Curry:

  • 1 tsp mustard seeds
  • 1 tsp cumin seeds
  • 1/3 tsp fenugreek seeds 
  • 2 tbsp curry powerder
  • 1 tsp. paprika powder
  • 1 tsp tumeric powder
  • 5 medium potatoes
  • 5 oz frozen peas
  • 2 tbsp sugar
  • Chopped cilantro for garnishing
  • water

Instructions:

  1. To make the gravy heat oil in a pan. Add cumin seeds, garlic, and ginger frying for a few seconds until golden brown. Add pinon and a sprinkle of salt. Cook until golden brown. Mix in tomatoes and red chili powder, cook until combined and onions tender. Remove from heat. Once cooled a bit mix in sour cream. Set aside. 
  2. In a deep pot with a lid (I used a covered cast iron) heat oil. Add mustard seeds, cumin, fenugreek and curry. Fry for a few seconds. Add chopped potatoes, salt and pepper to taste, and about a 1/2 cup water. Stir and cover. Cook on a low-med heat until potatoes are fork tender. You may need to add more water to keep them from sticking. 
  3. Add gravy and frozen peas to potatoes, mix well. Add sugar and remaining spices. If you still want a spicer dish add more red chili powder until desired heat level is acquired. Cover again and cook for five more minutes. 
  4. Serve over rice and garnish with chopped cilantro.

Intentions In 2015

How is a new year here already? Wasn't it just summer? This last half of the year has flown by like a super sonic jet. There's only 14 more days until Christmas, and I'm mostly done shopping. It's going to be a very toned down holiday. We've been putting a lot of (read: all) energy into the house. I've been working like a madwoman with two day jobs, and then my photography business on top of that. We've dealt with some pretty scary pet health issues, which are resolved now, but cost way more money than I had put away for that kind of thing. Despite all the craziness, It's still been an amazing year, and I'm thankful for all the good and the bad. I'd like to just put my intentions for 2015 out there into the universe, it'll help hold me accountable. 

Slow Down.

I've been going full speed for an extended period of time. I need to slow the pace down if not for anything more than my own sanity. I didn't even get the time to participate in NanoWriMo this year, which was a big let down. I've missed events with friends, and time with family.  I need to prioritize the important things in my life in front of the issues of the day. Things that inspire growth, creativity, thoughtfulness. 

Do more, with less. 

This is a repeat goal from many previous years, but going to be very useful this year. I'd love to be a minimalist even though it's not in my nature, but I'm going to try my damnedest to get close. I've been going through my belongings and started to pare down to what I really need. Less things, less to clean, less to spend, less to fuss over. I've also got some pretty big savings goals this year. I'd like to pay down some current debt, save for an overseas trip in 2016, and still be able to not really feel too terrible a pinch in my everyday finances. So a lifestyle is adjustment sorely needed. 

Connect. 

I need to spend more time in improving and keeping my current connections with the people I love. Friends, Family, and Brian. Living far away from family and childhood friends can make that hard. I still have a grand plan for a babe summit 2015 where we can all get some time to catch up and foster our friendships a bit more. Same goes for loved ones that are much closer in distance. More time to connect, more walks, more talks, more time. 

Make.

I'd like to produce something I'm really proud of at least once a month this year. Whether that's through sewing, writing, art, or otherwise will depend on my whim. I've been sorely lacking in any kind of creativity this last half of the year and it's been really to my own detriment. Once a month at least is doable, and worth it. 

Read.

Just as all my other hobbies have been kind of waning in all that is crazy this last half of the year, so has my reading. I did for a brief spell over thanksgiving break get to read at my usual voracious pace, which made me miss it even more. With more people in the house and more responsibilities it's been harder to find time, and a spot to really dig in to a book in the way I'm accustomed to. I need to get a good reading nook going, and find the time to do it. I enjoy reading far too much to not do it. 

More Personal Photos.

Since photography is my profession, I find myself with more photos of total strangers than people and things I actually care about. More personal photos, more everyday, more documenting. I need to start carrying my camera everywhere with me again. It's been in my pro-bag since the start of wedding season. Along with more personal photos, more scrap booking, which I love, and already have basically every supply I would ever need to get going again. I just need the photos. 

That's it. That's my intent for the new year. I will be more deliberate in my actions, my thoughtful in my relationships and more creative. What's your plan?

 

Completed: 18th Century Stays

Yes, I have been working on these forever. I did maybe half the stitching by hand, which didn't help matters. I worked on them twice while crossing state lines in the back of the car, and literally every other time I was sitting. I even bought a lap desk - it was that serious. 

Funny thing is, now that I'm done, I see about ten thousand things I'm going to do differently next time around. I hand stitched the binding on the cheater way, where you just squash it all together and stitch it once, instead of sewing on the wrong side, flipping and whip-stitching it down. I'll do it the right way next time. My hand stitching isn't the best in the world, but it'll do for the event I'm attending in January. I used store bough bias tape and silk thread to finish the edges. I also got two different dye lots on my bias tape, but didn't realize until I had already applied almost all of it to the stays. While not completely horrible, I can't wait to take my time to make a way more awesome pair next time. 

 

Supplies: 

  • Fabric: lining-cotton shirting, interfacings- cotton drill, outer fabric- seersucker)
  • Pattern: Butterick 4844 (discontinued) 
  • Notions: Gray silk thread, rigilene boning, metal eylets, and ribbon

What did I change?

  • Changed lacing pattern to historically accurate spiral lacing.
  • added five inches to length.
  • tweaked the boning pattern.
  • took two inches off front and back pattern pieces. 

Here are some photos of it actually on, holy boobs batman. Also after I took these photos I found it it's much more historically accurate to have the lacing gap in the back, and not the front. But I'd already taken pictures so you'll have to wait until the rest of my 18th century underwear is done before you see it correctly. My winter laziness has set in. 

Hopefully I'll start Brian's clothing this weekend, menswear is so much easier for me to sew. But hey! I finally finished these, yay me?

ON THE SEWING TABLE: 18TH CENTURY STAYS PART 2

It has been slow going on these stays. I gave up hand sewing because number one, I'm not good at it, and number two, I'd like to finish these stays before I turn 80. I did manage to get one side completely boned! 

The outside is seersucker ticking, the lining a blue cotton, and there's two layers of heavy duty cotton drill as interfacing. I did alter the pattern a good deal. I had to add four inches after trying on my muslin. I'm a bit long waist-ed but good god was this pattern short. I also took a good deal off the center back  as I was getting a lot of overlap at the top even though I have a very broad back. 

See how short? The neckline also seemed a bit low, and if I had planned on wearing it alone I might have raised it to prevent nip slips, but since I'm wearing a chemise underneath it I'm not too terribly worried about that. If all goes as planned I'd like to have this done by the end up of the week. I'm planning on binding it in a color that matches the lining, while the ribbons, eyelets, and possible flossing will match in a coral color. I won't lie, I'm worried about doing all those eyelets. I've even considered just using metal grommets, but figured I would do it the proper way first. 

On The Sewing Table: 18th Century Stays

Yeah, I know, I'm not posting very regularly. But it's wedding season. Sorry not sorry. I have finally started on my real live, boned, laced and very daunting stays though. I'm attending a living history event in Florida this January and want to go about my costume the right way. So I'm starting from the foundations up. I already have a few chemises, so step two are these stays. I picked up Butterick 4484 (out of print but still available), because it had everything I was planning to make.

From what I've read the stays in this pattern are just a repackage of view B on Butterick 4254, which many people have used with great success. Almost all the reviews say you need a muslin because this pattern is huge, and has a weirdly high back. Really for anything that's going to be a boned foundation garment it doesn't hurt to have a muslin. So despite my need for instant gratification I cut out a muslin. Even though I sized down two sizes this thing is going to need to be taken in a good deal, and that I can tell just from the pin fitting. 

It fits fairly spot on right now, and to actually be useful it needs to reduce a bit. There's some excess fabric in the bust it seems as well. Once I baste this bad boy together and try it on my body I'll know for sure what modifications I'll be making. I'm still pretty nervous about inserting all the boning, but hopefully it all goes smoothly. Anyone have any advice on this pattern, or stay making in particular? 

Travel: Montmarte Shops

One of my favorite ways to travel is rent an apartment and completely immerse myself in the local culture. I'd rather skip the all inclusive resorts, towel service, and maids. I want weird hallway smells, cooking for myself, and most of all grocery shopping. While we were in Paris we did exactly that. Out tiny Montmarte apartment was perfectly situated next our favorite cafe and so many also tiny but amazing shops. Nearly everyday we went to the following two stores, La Jurasserie Fine and Le Grenier à Pain Abbesses. Because honestly there wasn't a day that went by in Paris we didn't want baguettes and tartes, or meat and cheese. I think that might have been 85% of our vacation diet if we aren't counting the Gelato. Or the wine. That was like 150% of our vacation diet. 

I'm getting a little weepy today knowing I can't just walk over there, grab a bottle of wine and some sausage and go sit next to Sacré-Cœur

The bakery was always our next stop. Normally we just got a baguette or two (sometimes the one didn't survive the walk back to the apartment), but on the day I took photos we went a bit crazy ordering things a bit more frivolous than the peoples bread. Fun fact, the price of a plain baguette is actually regulated by the French government and has been since the revolution. 

That tarte though. Sometimes you've just got to go a bit pastry crazy right?

Anna's Costume Completed

Sow with a combination of a chemise (McCalls' 4548), boned bodice (simplicity 5582), a simple drawstring skirt, and a few purchased items (Minetonka Moc's and some Bloomers) we got together a pretty decent pre-1840's rendezvous outfit! 

Just some quick iPhone pictures. Don't worry we intend to fully ham it up once we're actually at the rendezvous, taking pictures in period surroundings will hopefully bring the costumes to life! I'm trying to finish my own costume tonight, so expect a quick sneak peak at that as well! 

Simplicity 5582 : A Second Run.

So I'm making two sets of costumes for the pre-1840's Rendezvous. I finished my friend Anna's Costume bodice over the weekend. It's the same as my mismatched plaid disaster (which I fixed btw, more on that later) and was much easier to piece together. It's lined with a linen-look fabric and trimmed with navy bias tape. 

I actually really like the process of setting grommets. The boning was basically the easiest thing ever as well. The only thing I don't like is how the peplum edge on the inside is sewn so the raw edge is on the inside of the garment. I might encase it if I get time after the event, but for now, no one would be the wiser. 

Simplicity 5582 Pattern Matching Fail

Guys, friends don't let friends let their fabric get off grain. 

I'm actually pretty pleased with how this bodice is coming out. I even get to use grommets for for first time! Although I spent a good deal of time matching up my plaids, I didn't realize the back of the folded fabric had gotten off grain. I was really doing very well everywhere but that one spot. You know right in the front of the garment. (Face Palm).

See? In fact I might just go buy a half yard and fix it it's bothering me so much. Anyone else have a good sewing fail this week?

Thoughts On The Bum Roll.

Yes, you read right. Thoughts on the Bum Roll. I've been in a costuming sewing marathon because of the upcoming living history event I'm attending. The event is Pre-1840's. Normally I don't go above and beyond in my costuming. Since I've been planning a little better this year, I thought I would throw some foundation garments into the mix. For those of you who don't know what a bum roll is, it's basically a pillow you tie around your waist to make your booty look like a table. Case in point, Claire from the show Outlander wears one. 

Outlander is copyright The Starz Channel

While looking at the photos you don't think wearing said bum roll would be all together not too awful, but let me tell you, it's strange. It's pretty much opposite of what you want to do with modern clothing. I'm not sure I need any help in the shelf shaped booty department either. Using Simplicity 5882 I made the bum roll. Check it out on my dress form. 

The Chemise is Simplicity McCalls' 4548 (Which I think is discontinued?). I ended up hating the Kannik's Korner Pattern. The instructions were a mess. I completed the chemise though, and despised it enough to cut out a completely different pattern. But that's a whole other post. The bum roll was easy. So easy you pretty much don't need a pattern. Instead of twill tape I made fabric tubes from the left over muslin from the chemise. I threw a simple drawstring petticoat over the bum roll to see what kind of effect I'd be getting in the photo below. 

It's honestly kind of intense ha. Once I have my heavier over-skirt on though, I think it might downplay the volume of the bum roll a bit? Anyone here have any experience with bum rolls? I was thinking I might make a pair of hip pads instead to see if those suit me better!

On The Sewing Table : Kannik's Korner Woman's Shift 1790-1820

Surprisingly I'm sewing something not for myself at the moment. This is in fact for my Grandmother. What can I say, love of costuming runs deep in my family! In fact, so deep that my Aunt hosts thousands of people at her farm every other year for a pre-1840's primitive rendezvous. Think historical camping. Think french fur traders. It's kind of a blast, and everything needs to be period correct. So She's commissioned me to make her a long sleeve version of this pattern.

kind of boring right? I assure you it's completely necessary, and probably the most important garment for your get up. You wear it under your skirt, stays, and apron. Or if you're bougie enough to have a dress, under that.

Although this pattern looks easy enough, every seam is flat felled. It's not hard to do, but certainly more time consumer than using my serger, which I'm sure would be frowned upon. I'm currently hardworking the eyelet holes and should hopefully be done this weekend. Anyone else doing some historical sewing?